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Routes in Fairy Cave Wall

Fists of Fairy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ch'ien Lee and Glen MacNair ( 2005)
Page Views: 22 total, 0/month
Shared By: Glen Charnoski on Nov 2, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

From the stairway the leader "Batman Starts" to the first bolt on top of the cave entrance. The second will need to prusik or jumar up the rope by himself!

Pitch 1 (6a+): Awkward first move, then up and right diagonal, then up again (crux) to the belay station (hanging belay).

Pitch 2 (5.6b): Straigt up then move right (crux) and further up (pumpy) to a ledge with a belay station.

Pitch 3 (6b+): Step up left on the big block (it moves!) to clip the first bolt. Then climb up through a technical crux and mantle to a big ledge (optional belay station). Easy climbing up to the right gets you to base of Nepenthes Wall with a double-bolt belay/abseil station. Rap or enter the cave and follow the path/stairs back out the cave.

Location

The route is located at the top of the white tower leading into Fairy Cave, right above the entrance, at the top of the final steps.

Protection

Many bolts, with 2 bolt anchors.

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