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Patio Cracks - Right

5.9, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 97 votes
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > E Yosemite Fall… > A. Swan Slab
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Description

This is the crack with the slippery 5.9 start that turns into a layback, becoming much easier up to a large ledge, with a short 5.3 crack up to a large tree.

Usually there's a cheater block at the base. Come'on though, we both know that you don't need that.

Location

The first crack left from the swan slab chimney, and just right of the 5.7 Unnamed crack. Use Chris Macnamara's guidebook for more specific directions.

Protection

Cams + Nuts. Or toprope it.

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Patio Crack
[Hide Photo] Patio Crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Incredibly slick start, but you can get a nut that protects the start from the ground (if you're tall). Note that the easiest way off is to downclimb the 5.0 face below and climber's left of the tree, then down over the boulder, climber's left. May 19, 2012
ChadC
San Diego CA
[Hide Comment] TRed off the tree up top.

Crux is the start. fun little short climb Feb 17, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Slick start for 5.9. I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Right. Jun 12, 2017
John Clark
Reno, NV
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] I would disagree with the slick start comment. It's polished, but if you get your feet high there are immediately good edges for feet. Dec 10, 2018
Cameron Cutting
San Francisco, CA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] It was 75F-ish when we climbed this weekend and I've never felt such oily rock. I made it up clean 3/4 times, but I can't imagine the grade would be less than 10+ if it were more of those slick moves in a row. Jun 26, 2023