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Stupid Pet Tricks

5.10b, Trad, 160 ft,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Brian Bennet, Vince Deposque, and Jack Wenzel 1985
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Cathedral Spire… > Middle Cathedral Rock
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is a slab adventure. Perhaps best in fall. In spring need cool temperatures but on my first visit right after snow melt the left over dirt from melted snow left a ball bearing texture on the rock. Very hard in those conditions. Rappel the route.

Location

North Face Apron

Protection

In 2006 the first two bolts were good. All other bolts poor. Belay was two 1/4" bolts. Spaced bolts in places - I don't think I found any trad gear.

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Stupid Pet Tricks
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Bryan G
Yosemite
[Hide Comment] Fall is indeed the best time to climb on the MCR Apron (and probably most places in the Valley I guess). By mid September the sun is low enough in the sky that the apron receives all-day shade. Ideal for those days in early Fall when it's still pretty hot in the sun.

All bolts were replaced by the ASCA. Unfortunately the fourth bolt has been hit by rockfall (a common occurrence on the MC Apron) and the hanger is flat. You could maybe still thread it with a thin piece of cord? Otherwise it is easy to skip the bolt (and the 5.10 crux after it) by traversing up and right to a scoop, then stepping left to the fifth bolt (5.7 very runout). Sep 15, 2012