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Routes in Rivelin Edge

Blizzard Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Croton Oil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Groove Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jonathan's Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Pete Crew, 1963 (previously aided)
Page Views: 181 total, 2/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 31, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Up a wide crack to a ledge. Move up the wall above, trending left to a good crack (one long reach). Finish up the slightly dodgy finishing flake, then descend by abseil down the short overhanging north side.

Location

Rivelin Needle is the obvious free-standing obelisk at the centre of Rivelin Edge. Start at the base of the south face.

Protection

Well-protected by cams and wires. Chain at top for belay and abseil.

Photos

Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
Bolts on natural grit? You'd get lynched!

edit: that said, I think there's a couple of rap bolts on top of Froggatt pinnacle... Aug 28, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
I found the protection to be a bit fiddly -- not a good first 5.9/5.10 lead, but the climb is quite excellent, with really nice exposure and a lovely position high above the Rivelin Valley.

The OW start is pretty cool (kneebar!), but is a bit contrived, given it's only 10 feet of climbing, it's useless to try and protect it, and you can just walk around.

The rappel chain is a little sketchy -- it's thin, rusty, and you can't check half of it. If I knew how to install a couple bolts, I would. Aug 27, 2013