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Routes in High Peaks

Abuela Cochinita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Andy's Sunset Punctuation Pinnacle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anvil, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Babies On the Ceiling S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Burgundy Dome S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burtons Below S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Sweep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condor Condiment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condor Crag South - Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cone Regular Route, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Egg Shell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erectile Dysfunction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feather Canyon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Freedom Dome, Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
H&L Dome - Regular Route S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hand Me Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Little Javelina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long's Folly: Regular Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Fortune S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lump, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operation Pinnacles Freedom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Photographer's Delight S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Piglet Pinnacle Southeast Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scandal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuff Dome Regular Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmentionable, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What I've Been Missing Out On T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
sponge left side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
swept away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 480 total, 7/month
Shared By: rhyang on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Raptor Closures! Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pitch 1 (120', 5.8) : Climb a right-trending hand crack for 70'. It narrows down briefly to fingers and then closes up to a seam. Then follow some slabby stuff 50' (no pro that I saw, but easy terrain) up to a two-bolt belay in an alcove.

Pitch 2 (80' ? fourth - easy fifth) : Head up knobs, trending right into a low-angle chute and belay off a single bolt.

Location

The Fault Zone is a buttress just below Long's Folly; routes end near the High Peaks trail (walk off).

To get there, take the High Peaks trail north from the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail (there is an outhouse near the junction). Descend a ways, and then begin ascending again, then turn right down what looks like a deer trail. If you start heading up some steps cut into the rock accompanied by handrails, you've gone too far.

The junction is 2 miles from the Bear Gulch parking lot, with about 1200' elevation gain.

There will be a steep, left-leaning crack heading up the buttress to a black water streak -- this is Condor 70 (5.10a R). Continue right through some trees and observe a chimney-looking thing heading up. Then turn to your left and see the beautiful hand crack (north-facing).

Protection

Cams from 0.6" to 2.5 or 3" (the crack widens briefly), maybe a set of nuts.

The guidebook mentioned a bolt somewhere on the first pitch, but I seem to have missed it.

Tape might be handy -- the rock is sharp and knobby inside the crack.

Photos

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