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Routes in Land of the Shorties

1-8-7 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Fishador T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ghetto Toes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greatful Deadpoint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half A Full Monte S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hopeful Monsters S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jawbone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mechanical Animals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monster Baiter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearl Jammin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Porcupining Away S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shoot the moon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Steep Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Giant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sylvester Sidewalk S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Violet Sanctuary S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bolted by Blake Workman. First sent by Lee Terveen
Page Views: 589 total · 7/month
Shared By: BBQ on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Mechanical Animals starts on the same stone pedestal as Hopeful Monsters. Start just slightly left of the bolt line and don't be afraid to to use a few of Hopeful's beginning holds after clambering your way up some blocks. Claw you way up some small holds to a pair of mondo jugs that can serve as your first rest. The fun begins with a couple of drop-knee moves to small holds on really overhung terrain. Clip from a microjug and get set up for a flying sidepull and stab for a great left-hand hold. Get set up for a steep crux and launch for a strange, black pocket that bites back. Struggle your way to the anchors and scream. This route is definitely suited for rock star bouldering types who love super-steep, sustained, technical climbing with several powerful moves onto low probability holds right up until the desperate fight of a finish.

Location

Land of the Shorties. 4th route from the very left hand side of the wall. Start on top of pedestal.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

harrison t
Black Hills, SD
 
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
 
Short and Burly Dec 14, 2014

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