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Routes in Bell Tower

Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Conn Route on Bell Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Every Which Way But Kamps S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Every Which Way But Loose T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Whom the Bell Tolls S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kamps Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Cindy Tolle and Pete DeLannoy, Sept. 17, 1990
Page Views: 795 total, 11/month
Shared By: AhK on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Follow bolts in the beautiful water groove on the SE face. Consistent climbing on great rock with great protection leads to a small bulge and the crux near the last bolt. The last 30 feet is slightly easier, but quite thin and unprotected.

Cindy Tolle and Pete DeLannoy took turns drilling bolts on lead with a Bosch. After drilling the last bolt, Pete thought that there would be a bomber hand hold above from which he could drill an additional bolt, which turned out to be false.

A great view of climbers on this route can be had from the summit of the Hitching Post or the Thimble.

Location

Start at the bolted anchor on the ledge above the Walt Bailey Chimney. Either jump the guard rail and thrash up the chimney with poor protection, or rap to the ledge from the Every Which Way But Loose anchor.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts.

Descent can be made off either side of the Bell Tower with one rope, but watch the ends if descending N side.

Photos

Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11b PG13
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11b PG13
Consistent climbing, yes. Great rock, no. Jul 3, 2012
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Congratulations to Pete and Cindy for a ground-up ascent in (updated) classic Needle's style! Feb 11, 2012
AhK
 
AhK  
 
Tim, you're probably right. The last 30 feet is by no means atypical for the Needles, with the exception that its not a jug haul. There is potential for a BIG ride and also a small possibility of hitting the belay ledge if you fell near the final anchors. This was my reasoning for the R rating.

If you can get past the final bolt, there's very little chance of falling after it. Most climbers who are familiar with the area would probably agree that PG-13 is a fair rating. Nov 16, 2011
Tim McCabe
  5.11b PG13
Tim McCabe  
  5.11b PG13
I was living in the area when this route went in seems like I got the 3rd ascent. I remember something about why there wasn't a bolt after the crux. Not sure anymore but I don't remember the run out being that bad by Needles standards. Oct 26, 2011