Avg: 3.5 from 15
votes
This route sits just left of the Doggfather and yet offers a very different style of climbing. Whereas the Doggfather requires power and control with a V5 crux, Beyond is just sustained crimping with no individual move harder than V3 or V4 but lots of them, one after the other until you are spent. Begin off the ground and do a few techie V1/V2 crimp moves to gain a system of interconnecting rails and flat holds veering slightly left until you have an ok rest. Rest up here, clip and move back right through a reachy sidepull then fire through a wild series of sustained crimps clipping periodically as you go. Eventually you get to a big jug, then a small roof at which point you can rest pretty good before doing a final V2-ish move just below the chains. Your arms should feel like silly putty on the RP burn.
Just left of the Doggfather.
Bolts
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Just kidding. Couldn't help myself. Oct 26, 2011
I haven't been on any of them recently, but as I recall, Beyond and WYD are so different in style that comparing them is pretty difficult.
Regarding WYD vs.the Doggfather, yes, I think the Doggfather is significantly harder than WYD. IMO, considered as an isolated boulder problem, the Doggfather crux is much more difficult than anything on WYD. It involves more moves and is much more powerful. This perspective could well be because of my personal weaknesses and strengths of course. The WYD crux rewards subtle body positioning and crafty technique, while the Doggfather crux is a straightforward power problem. As I'm a lousy power climber, but do feel like I can finesse my way through lots of things, WYD certainly plays more to my strengths.
Cheers,
Derek Aug 12, 2013