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Wheatward Bound

5.12b, Sport,  Avg: 3.5 from 55 votes
FA: Kelly Brown
Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > Lilly Bluff

Description

Classic Obed roof! Start off with a tricky boulder problem that guards the first bolt (stick clip). Climb the face and catch a great rest at the top just before the roof. Climb the roof doing some cool moves. Get passed some small holds and reach the chains.

Location

Located at Lilly Bluff. Look for the obvious roof with fixed draws. Bolt line starts about 15 feet right of the chimney near the center of the wall.

Protection

7 bolts to chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wheatward Bound- 12b.
[Hide Photo] Wheatward Bound- 12b.
Henry on the final moves of Wheatward Bound - 5.12b
[Hide Photo] Henry on the final moves of Wheatward Bound - 5.12b

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

christopher tabeling
 
[Hide Comment] Literally amazing! Get On This Climb and you will be hooked. Best roof climb I have ever done. This route starts with a stout v5ish problem on the ground to a easy face then you start on the real business in the roof. Jun 18, 2017
Mick Doodle
 
[Hide Comment] V4/5 boulder at the start that can be so many ways. Fat fingers? Climb straight up the boulder. Otherwise climb right to some super tiny cracks. After the thin crimp in the roof, I found it to be easier to cut feet and throw to the jug. Sep 15, 2018
Alexander Stathis
Chattanooga, TN
 
[Hide Comment] Bottom boulder isn't v4/5. Maybe it is if you did what I think you did, but then you missed all the jugs and did something super contrived to skip em. More like v3 if you're being generous. Don't let all that talk scare you off. The final boulder problem guarding the chains is probably V4/5 though, those are some small holds. Mar 31, 2019
JD Borgeson
Little Rock, AR
 
[Hide Comment] Use a double draw on the first bolt if you need to work the lower crux. your rope will thank you. Nov 30, 2020
Gabriel Seitz
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Our group was split on beta. Those who couldn't do the more direct (V4?) boulder problem on side-pulls and under-clings opted to climb WAY left for big moves on jugs. A no-hands rest separates the start from the real crux pulling the roof anyways. May 17, 2021
Brett Smith
Cincinnati, OH
 
[Hide Comment] Incredible route, one of the best roofs i’ve ever been on. the second bolt in the roof is pulling out of its sleeve, may just tighten back it but hard to say. May 22, 2023
A drew
Knoxville, TN
[Hide Comment] fun route, but bolts in the roof really need to be replaced. Nov 21, 2023