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Routes in Ghost Talus Field

Bully V8-9 7B+
Chossome V2 5+
Full Sail V10 7C+
Fustercluck V3 6A
Ghost Dance V1 5
Green Fire V6 7A
Green Haze V8 7B
Let's play doctor V4 6B
Makin' Bacon V4 6B
Phanton Face V0 4
Pine Time V2-3 5+
Sail Away V7-8 7B
Show time V5 6C
There are Two V8 7B
There is no White Knight V7 7A+
Two Balls In A Sack V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Paul Dieterle
Page Views: 1,344 total, 18/month
Shared By: Paul Dieterle on Oct 21, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

There is no White Knight is a sit start from a positive crimp rail. After two really hard crimp moves, you move to the triangle ledge and up the fun topout. This is a very fun dihedral, despite being a short problem. The topout features engaging moves on comfy holds.

Location

Straight up the dihedral on the west side of the Quandary Boulder. Pretty obvious...

Protection

Two pads ought to be plenty. The landing is uncharacteristically flat for a talus field.
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7
Doesn't this boulder problem qualify as a 4 star problem? Nice setting, an obvious start hold, interesting moves, a topout, and a relatively flat landing. All the stars. Nicely done, Paul. Sep 18, 2014
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
If you start with your left hand on a sidepull on the left wall, it is a bit harder and climbs very differently. Known as the "Dark Knight variation" Nov 20, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
Awesome problem! The holds feel great in cold conditions. Nov 18, 2013
madisonchoss  
 
Similar in difficulty and quality to Fat Pants. Nice one, Paul. Oct 15, 2013
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Gonna have to check this out! Apr 21, 2013
SteveSchultz  
 
Did this one today. Thought it was a great problem! Apr 21, 2013
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
 
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
 
Hey Steve,

I started matched on the right wall. The crux of this problem is definitely the first two moves, but it's not too bad when you get the body positioning and lock off right. Bring your edging shoes! Dec 8, 2012
SteveSchultz  
 
For those that haven't seen it yet this is an extremely aesthetic line and I'm excited to get back up there with a pad or two to try it! Paul, did you start matched on the right wall or with one hand on the left and one on the right?

There's also 3-4 other nearby boulders that look like they might have some nice problems on them. Dec 8, 2012