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Routes in Crystal Lake Crag

Ace Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete of Regret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Electric Dylan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerbang TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Garbage Chute T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I'm Lichen This TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Leaper Route, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Armed Swordsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocktease T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tourist Route, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Waste of Time T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Keith Leaman & Phil Gleason, 1965
Page Views: 1,376 total, 18/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 21, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Road Closures Details

Description

This route heads up an interesting crack with a short overhanging section, followed shortly by an offwidth section. Atop the crack, you hit a ledge, followed by a tenuous traverse to the right using a finger crack. This traverse would be routine if it weren't for the lichen, making smearing more challenging. A couple moves to a mantle and you're up. Please be careful as there is a lot of loose rock on the belay ledge.

The second pitch heads up easy ground above the belay. There is a large rock horn (6ft tall or so) on the climber's left that can be used as a rapp anchor. There is also a class 3-4 walkoff if you continue uphill and take one of the scree ramps down to the south. You could probably build an anchor at the top of pitch 1 to avoid pitch 2.

Location

This route is located uphill and to the right of Choss Boss Crag. It is right near the middle of Crystal Lake Crag. Basically head to Choss Boss Crag (look at the Tourist Route, I'm Lichen This pages). You will take the large scree ramp directly north/climber's right of this crag straight up. There's a little scrmably step at the end of this scree ramp... get on top of this then look to your left and BAM! That's the route!

Protection

  • A typical rack of cams to #4, with #3 Camalots being the most useful. A few #3's on the rack and you're golden.
  • 12ft webbing and a link for the rapp anchor above pitch 2
  • We used a 70m rope to rapp from the top of pitch 2.

Photos

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