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Routes in Iannis

Adolf in the Bay S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Attitude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kalyne S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sevasti S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Themelina S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa King Pumped S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verikoko S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zagori S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Boris Girardin, Claude & Yves Remy, 2009
Page Views: 47 total, 1/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

Adolf in the Bay, climber on nirvana. This is as good as 11+ gets. So good, in fact, the Kalymnian council on grace and climber affairs has petitioned the greater climbing community to have this line closed for a bronze casting.

Adolf starts easily enough--as most Adolf's are wont to do. But soon enough, it's world war. Launch into a steep 'n' deeply pocketed wall and follow the sparsely (for Kaly standards) bolted line as it wends up and right around a hell bulge. An airy stance on more good, but ominously smaller pockets is your reward. Good. Now breathe. Here comes the buttery sickness.

Look left. See those, blackened, greasy-ass, off-camber sloper feet? You've got to step on those, young leader, groping for whatever equally greasy yet crueler, off-camber edges and sidepulls and monos you can manage. Grab the correct ones; don't waste any time flailing on the wrong holds.

By the way, no, you're not at Rifle. But you may wish you were when you realize you have to get freaky with that obvious, jagged vagina of a hole 3000 meters to your left before you can clip the chains. Levitate left, shove your fist inside, and welcome the bliss.

Location

On top of a gray/white limestone pedestal, far right side of the Innis cave. Marked in blue. You might have to step over the carcasses of climbers who were too fucking pumped to finish "Tufa King Pumped."

Protection

About 10-ish draws and an albatross wingspan. Anchor bolts come complete with yer typical Kalymnian steel drop 'biner.

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