Adolf in the Bay
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Boris Girardin, Claude & Yves Remy, 2009 |
Page Views: | 774 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Top Rope Hero on Oct 20, 2011 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Charles Yang, Loren P |
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Description
Adolf in the Bay, climber on nirvana. This is as good as 11+ gets. So good, in fact, the Kalymnian council on grace and climber affairs has petitioned the greater climbing community to have this line closed for a bronze casting.
Adolf starts easily enough--as most Adolf's are wont to do. But soon enough, it's world war. Launch into a steep 'n' deeply pocketed wall and follow the sparsely (for Kaly standards) bolted line as it wends up and right around a hell bulge. An airy stance on more good, but ominously smaller pockets is your reward. Good. Now breathe. Here comes the buttery sickness.
Look left. See those, blackened, greasy-ass, off-camber sloper feet? You've got to step on those, young leader, groping for whatever equally greasy yet crueler, off-camber edges and sidepulls and monos you can manage. Grab the correct ones; don't waste any time flailing on the wrong holds.
By the way, no, you're not at Rifle. But you may wish you were when you realize you have to get freaky with that obvious, jagged vagina of a hole 3000 meters to your left before you can clip the chains. Levitate left, shove your fist inside, and welcome the bliss.
Adolf starts easily enough--as most Adolf's are wont to do. But soon enough, it's world war. Launch into a steep 'n' deeply pocketed wall and follow the sparsely (for Kaly standards) bolted line as it wends up and right around a hell bulge. An airy stance on more good, but ominously smaller pockets is your reward. Good. Now breathe. Here comes the buttery sickness.
Look left. See those, blackened, greasy-ass, off-camber sloper feet? You've got to step on those, young leader, groping for whatever equally greasy yet crueler, off-camber edges and sidepulls and monos you can manage. Grab the correct ones; don't waste any time flailing on the wrong holds.
By the way, no, you're not at Rifle. But you may wish you were when you realize you have to get freaky with that obvious, jagged vagina of a hole 3000 meters to your left before you can clip the chains. Levitate left, shove your fist inside, and welcome the bliss.
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