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Routes in Stellar Walls

Double Dragon Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gecko Staircase T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unfinished Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Schlocker
Page Views: 394 total, 5/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 15 through August 31 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A 2 pitch adventure up the Stellar Walls. Pitch 2 is one of the more serious pitches in the area in terms of difficulty and bolt spacing.

P1 5.9 (Little Chicken, 80'): Start from the ledge as for Stellar Crack and traverse left and up, following the bolts. First move is protected by a medium nut. Follows a series of overlaps and right facing dihedrals. Anchor is way out to the right making the exit exciting for the second.

P2 5.10d (Unfinished Business, 120'): Head up broken rock to a ledge from where it is hard to continue due to undercut feet and small hands. Up and a step left from here. The route gets progressively easier until a headwall is reached. The headwall is entertaining with a slight overhang but good holds.

Location

Left side of Stellar Crack ledge. Can rap from P1 but must walk off climbers' left from P2 due to length of pitch. There is also a rap station ~80' to climbers' right at top but is hard to find.

Protection

Medium nut for start, to protect leftward traverse. Easy but dangerous without the nut.

It may be wise to place a cam before the headwall is reached as it is run out but easy to the headwall bolt. I just ran it out so I can't say what size would fit but medium is a good guess from looking around. It is good to place a longer quickdraw on the first headwall bolt to avoid drag.

Photos

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
Yes, this route is a bit more wild than the rest. Pitch 2 is quite exciting right off the deck. Mar 23, 2016
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
I stupidly didn't check the knot in the end of the rope after rapping DD Arete and it got stuck at the chains. Luckily, with more than half of a 60m rope left, I was able to safely lead Little Chicken and JUST make it to the rap station for DD and retrieve the rope.

Not sure exactly how to start this climb. The description is a bit confusing. "Start on ledge as for Stellar Crack" . . . well, Stellar starts on the far right corner of the ledge, which didn't really seem to make sense for this climb. Not sure about a nut protecting the first move, either. Left side of the ledge--below the bolt line--does have some pro options, but not the greatest. A bunch of loose, hollow flakes. Easy climbing, tho. I clipped the first bolt on Chicken Little (11.a line between Stellar and LC) then traversed left ten feet or so. Not a great fall, but easy climbing. Put in an okay cam until I was able to clip the first actual bolt on the LC line.

This was a pretty interesting and unique climb. 5.9 rating is good, but pushed by the fact that there are sections with a lot of lichen and moss on the rock. It makes you think. Oct 6, 2014