Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Schlocker
Page Views: 530 total · 6/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 1 through July 31 Details
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A 2 pitch adventure up the Stellar Walls. Pitch 2 is one of the more serious pitches in the area in terms of difficulty and bolt spacing.

P1 5.9 (Little Chicken, 80'): Start from the ledge as for Stellar Crack and traverse left and up, following the bolts. First move is protected by a medium nut. Follows a series of overlaps and right facing dihedrals. Anchor is way out to the right making the exit exciting for the second.

P2 5.10d (Unfinished Business, 120'): Head up broken rock to a ledge from where it is hard to continue due to undercut feet and small hands. Up and a step left from here. The route gets progressively easier until a headwall is reached. The headwall is entertaining with a slight overhang but good holds.

Location

Left side of Stellar Crack ledge. Can rap from P1 but must walk off climbers' left from P2 due to length of pitch. There is also a rap station ~80' to climbers' right at top but is hard to find.

Protection

Medium nut for start, to protect leftward traverse. Easy but dangerous without the nut.

It may be wise to place a cam before the headwall is reached as it is run out but easy to the headwall bolt. I just ran it out so I can't say what size would fit but medium is a good guess from looking around. It is good to place a longer quickdraw on the first headwall bolt to avoid drag.

Photos