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Routes in Central Buttress North Face

North Face Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 790 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Jim Bell and Alexander Harrison - 1929
Page Views: 55 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

P1: Follow a series of shallow grooves to a ledge
P2: Move up left and follow the wide left-most crack on huge holds to belay at the top.
P3: Scramble easily up to belay at the top right end of Heather Ledge
P4: Move up a short way then traverse right around the edge on good holds and up a shallow cracked groove to underneath the overhung recess. Traverse right and drop down to belay on a ledge beneath a steep wall.
P5: Climb the wall (crux) to gain a right-slanting shelf about 10 ft up. Go easily along this then up right to belay at the base of a deep, overhung chimney slot.
P6: Climb the chimney, then step left and move up the wall to bypass the overhang. Move back right into the chimney above the overhang. Continue up easy ground to a belay on the right.
P7: Move left down the ledge covered with loose rock to nearly its end then make a few difficult moves up to climb a crack near the edge and then the edge above.
P8: Continue up the edge above on immaculate rock. Scramble up easily then traverse right above the top of D-Gully to gain Curved Ridge.

The route wanders to some extent and several pitches can be combined, especially 1 & 2, 3 & 4, and 7 & 8.

Location

Finding the start can be a bit challenging. Look for some easy slabs on the left once you make the turn on the trail after the Waterslide. Central Buttress is up and left from the Waterslide and you have to hike up a bit through the scree field. Keep looking for D-Gully and D-Gully Buttress on the left. Central Buttress is further left and the start of this route is generally in the middle area. The elusive 'bollard beneath a recess' is a block about 3ft high, 2ft wide and 2ft deep.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Bring plenty of long slings.

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