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Routes in Pigeon Stool Wall

Fiddler on the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
October Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roaring Lion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 959 total, 13/month
Shared By: jdberndt on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

P1: Stroll past some lichen on questionable rock to a rightward traverse above a slab that wants to spit you. Equalize a fixed pin and 1/4" bolt then step across the gaping maw to a two bolt anchor. Don't forget to protect your follower.
P2: Clip fixed pin and traverse left into bushy crack. Follow arete to madrone tree for belay.

Location

Traverse base of wall past obvious white-ish overhang with hard routes. Ascend choss left of slight bulge with fixed pin.

Rap route or ascend grassy ledges (4/5th class) to walk off.

Protection

Gear to 2". Doubles in finger size pieces.

Photos

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RobUSA
  5.6
RobUSA  
  5.6
Finding the route: Coming from the right end of Pigeon Stool Wall, it's the very first spot where you could climb around the overhang of that white roof. The beginning is nicely shaded by a small collection of madrone and evergreen trees.

1st pitch: It's pretty short, and were most of the fun is. After you get up higher than that white roof on your right (i.e. when you're about level with the top of the Madrone behind you) go right up that steep ramp. Equalize the fixed-pin and the antique bolt, and then you get to do the step-across, which is much easier than it looks. Protect your follower after the step across, and then belay off the awesome pair of bolts on this big ledge.

2nd pitch: It's pretty long, but it's a lot simpler. Climb up on either side of the big vegetation-filled crack, and just keep going up. Eventually you start getting some modern bolts to clip, but they're pretty spaced out so consider placing gear at times too. The climbing gets easier, sometimes just 3rd class, but still fun. At the top it's almost too far to yell to your belayer.

Descent: The 190' reported total height seems right. We rapped from a nice pair of bolts at the very tip-top with two 60m ropes tied together, and we landed right on top of our packs at the base with some rope to spare. With just a single rope, I doubt you'd make it back to the 1st pitch belay ledge, so you'd be looking at the sketchy proposition of rapping off a single bolt. Alternatively, the rock above the top of the route gets pretty level & forested, so there probably is a walk-off somewhere. Sep 8, 2014
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.7
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.7
A good adventurous climb, but not for the 5.6 leader. First part has funky rock and pro, upper part of climb is great climbing but runout. Feb 14, 2014