Type: Boulder
FA: Ryan Sayers
Page Views: 754 total · 6/month
Shared By: NicholasM on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Start standing on two poor slimpers at head/chest height on the far right side of the wall. Feet should use small poor edges below. The crux is pulling off the ground and moving into the two better crimps just to the left and then a pinch that you can dyno to the lip from. It has a nice mantel finish. This is the beta I have always known and is true to Dan Russell's Colorado Springs Bouldering Website guide put together at the turn of the 21st century. This guide was the first I know of to document Ute Valley climbs and added quite a few "new" problems sent by the likes of Ryan Sayers, Than Hansen, and Jeff Russell. Brian Shelton's guide states the climb is a sit start beginning on lower holds. To my knowledge this is not true and is contrary to the Dan Russell guide, created shortly after Ryan's ascent, which was probably witnessed by Dan.

There is also a link up from Somewhere Around Barstow into Hangnut. Called Hangtough, V10, (FA-Nick Murray on 4-5-14), it is a stand start and uses the good right starting slimper of Somewhere Around Barstow for the left hand. The right hand uses a low right undercling. Trick beta allows for a traverse into one of the slimpers of Hangnut. Next, comes a double dyno compression squeeze grab. The small rock prow behind has major dab potential if you swing crazy and a fall could have you cracking your head open on it. I don't know if a spotter will really help, so bring some thin padding to cover the prow behind. Fortunately, I always flew under the prow when missing the dyno, landing perfectly onto pads setup below the small boulder in the landing zone.

Protection

Pad(s) and spotter for the uneven landing and the prow that one might slam into behind.

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