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Routes in g. The Great Buttress

Dean's List S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's List (arĂȘte variation) S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Book T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tales from the Crypt T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Three Buttresses (first pitch) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Buttresses (first pitch, variation 2) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 566 total · 7/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Climb to the open book about 8 feet above the trail, then follow it to below an overhang. Hand traverse right under the overhang (instead of mantling onto the lower ledge in the original version), and reach a cedar tree belay station.

Location

Just left around the buttress from Tales From the Crypt is a little crack system that slants a bit left.

Protection

Protects easily with some small cams and medium nuts. With up to #1 camalot and you can back up the tree too. Webbing and rings are usually present on the tree.

Photos

Andrew Piotrowski
Warminster, Pennsylvania
  5.5
Andrew Piotrowski   Warminster, Pennsylvania
  5.5
Onsight lead it on Sat 4/8/17. Nice climb but watch out for loose blocks early on. Takes gear well. Replaced a bunch of old baked/nasty slings at the tree with some new 7mm and a ring. Be nice to the tree its looking a little beat up. Apr 10, 2017