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Routes in Iannis

Adolf in the Bay S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Attitude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kalyne S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sevasti S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Themelina S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa King Pumped S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verikoko S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zagori S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 82 ft
FA: Neil Gresham, 2004
Page Views: 536 total · 7/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Tufa King Pumped indeed. This one packs a wallop. And then it gets hard.

Haul up fantastic, Jersey-sized tufa blobs out of the cave until you're foaming from the pump. Roll over the lip on big holds and you're done, right? Wrong. Crux time. Too bad all those late nights watching Seinfeld reruns; you should have been campusing on worn-down dimes and Ginsu steak knives.

You also should have been eating your Wheaties 'cause your tank at this point is dry as English humor, and you still have to pull through power underclings with awkward positioning to a slopey "crimp" that's more like a jar of Vaseline than a handhold.

Good luck with that. Hope ya don't get tufa king pumped. I mean...actually I hope you DO get it, but not really, I mean...what I'm sayin' is...

Location

On top of the gray/white limestone pedestal, right side of the Iannis cave, seemingly OUT of it—but once you look at the angle of those opening moves you realize, "Oh, not really."

Just left of "Attitude."

Protection

A dozen plus draws and months of training doing fingernail pull-ups. With manatees tied to your feet.

Photos

Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Holy crap, this route is good. Although the description makes it sound worse than it is. I used two crimps through the crux and they were both very positive. Really good sequential climbing with incredible position. The short splitter up top is icing on the cake. Whoa! Aug 1, 2017
Sean Brokaw
Boulder, CO
 
Sean Brokaw   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome route! Fun pumpy moves lead to a bouldery crux about three quarters of the way up. From there, easier but still engaging movement leads you to the anchor. One of my favorite climbs on the island! Oct 12, 2013