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Routes in Iannis

Adolf in the Bay S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Attitude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kalyne S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sevasti S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Themelina S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa King Pumped S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verikoko S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zagori S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Simon Montmory, 2009
Page Views: 201 total, 3/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

Fantastic in a bag. "Attitude" trends up and around right of a shallow, overhanging arete on tufa blobs and reverse chicken heads. Flash the overhang, sketch out on a sloppy, leaning rail, throw desperate for the horn, then haul your ass up to an airy stance and rejoice: You just sent the physical crux! But the bitchy technical crux remains, so get yer attitude right.

Finger the proper pockets, execute the right sequence, and correctly work left on greasy feet and off-camber side pulls that'll have you thinkin' you're at Rifle. (Bonus points if you traverse low with an iron cross.) Finally, fire up the last bit and yell "TAKE"! Pump your fists a few times in victory. Now look over your left shoulder and sigh as team Petzl run laps on "O Draconian Devil," a casual sashay out of the cave that clocks in 172 grades harder than what you just did.

Rap back down and send again, podling. You just don't have the right attitude.

FAIR WARNING: The first clip can seem thin 'n' desperate if 11d is your project limit. Bring a stick or better yet, have one of the gorillas de-pumping from the "Devil" come over and spot you.

Location

On the right side of the cave proper. Scramble all the way up into the cave and walk out the ledge system until it ends. Look at the wall--that blue paint? Says "Attitude"? Start climbing.

Protection

Some draws, many. One or two long ones would be nice. And there's a two-bolt/two 'biner anchor. Yah, and some bolts are very awkward to clip unless you're a five-legged gecko with double jointed knees. Sweetness.

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