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Routes in Big Tree Wall (Khao Khom)

Gypsy Follies S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Looney Tunes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Kush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Typsy Gypsy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Drew Spaulding, Mark Miner, Justin Day
Page Views: 426 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Williams on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Climbing Banned Details
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Mark would say that this climb takes you into "the tufa zone." Wild, melting features dominate the center of this wall and this route goes right through the middle of it all.

P1: Start under the giant tufas and climb up through them, exiting left onto a large ledge. (You could also start on Snuffalufagus, probably a good idea).

P2: Head up and right on pockets and tufas, excellent pitch.

P3: Continue up and right to a belay under a huge stalactite. Look left into the dark, overhanging "hunchback" for a wild view of tufas and stalactites.

P4: Exit the belay to the right and head straight up, pulling through some steep crux moves just before the chains.

Descent... we rapped the route w/ a 70 but there has been some work done on this wall since then. There is probably a more direct descent option now, as rapping the route w/o getting your rope stuck is tricky.

Location

Start right in the middle of the wall, under the huge overhanging stalactite roof.

Protection

Pretty sure there were Ti and SS glue in bolts... if not, it's expansion bolts from 2007 which would be questionable at best.

Photos

HECTOR MARTINEZ
  5.10b
HECTOR MARTINEZ  
  5.10b
Great climb on the north side of Koh Yao Noi. Whoever bolted this crag: THANK YOU!!!! We took the speedboat from Phuket (Bang Rong Pier) to Koh Yao Noi (Manoh Pier), for 200 THB. Then from there, we hired a longtail boat to take us to Big Tree (round trip for 2000 THB). If coming from Krabi or that area, go to Tha Khao Pier instead of Manoh, which is much closer to the climbs. The boat can drop you off right below the climbs. There is strong phone signal there (I use D-tac), so you can call the boat driver when you're done. From the drop-off spot (we just picked a random spot in front of the big wall), we hiked 5 minutes to the actual climbs. This climb starts right below the huge black tufa, on the left side. It's protected with very good glue-ins and a few questionable slings. The rating at 5.10 seems accurate to me. You can do the whole adventure in one day, leaving Bang Rong at 7:50 am, and taking the last speedboad from Manoh at 4:40 pm. We had our own gear. I hear you can rent gear (and buy a guidebook) from Mountain Shop right there by Tha Khao pier. Enjoy! Oct 30, 2017