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Routes in Mississippi Buttress

Congo Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mississippi Buttress Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mississippi Variant T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Peter Biven - 1954
Page Views: 44 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


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Description

P1: climb a rather technical, thin crack to a good stance (rest) below the overhangs. From this stance The Link goes right. Instead, move up and left to a good horizontal and then follow the line of weakness back to the right. A few interesting moves gets you up to a small ledge. From here make some delicate moves (layback?) up to a large horn and the thin finish.

I seem to remember mantling up to the small ledge and finding this be rather 'balancy' and delicate. Fun route...def worth your time.

Location

Start about 10-15 ft left of Mississippi Buttress Direct and about 20-25 ft right of the obvious Mississippi Chimney

Protection

standard trad rack, long runners helpful for the zig-zag section in the middle if not using double-ropes.

Photos

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marsh
  5.9+
marsh  
  5.9+
Tough pulls through the first moves, the holds are there! Epic exposure for gritstone, a must do! Mar 3, 2013