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Speak Easy [Suggest Change]
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in p. Little Havana
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Core Shot T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cuba Libre T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Havana Club T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hump-and-Dump aka Bodyrock TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mad Politics TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Motorcycle Diarrhias TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Speak Easy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Susie Q T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 156 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Galen Rahmlow on Oct 19, 2011 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description [Suggest Change]
The vertical crack-line to the left of Susie Q that shares the same top-out. Start by the big roof and follow the crack on the right side to the top. Fun little climb with a mantle. Several options.
Location [Suggest Change]
To the left of Susie Q by the big roof. Follow the crack on the right side of the big roof to the top. Shares the same finish as Susie Q.
Brooklyn, NY
It's hard to tell from both the top and bottom, but the top of the beta photo is a good 15 feet below the top of the cliff. There's large lower area that you probably want to extend your anchor down to, if setting a TR. Jun 20, 2016