Chickenhead Better Than No Head
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Dip Wall
|Chickenhead Better Than No Head T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|God Save the Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Green Eggs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grinch, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Griptospuridiam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Ham T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Logic and Proportion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Lorax Tree, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|One Fist, Two Fist, Red Fist, Blue Fist T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Orange Crush T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Over the Hedge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Sam I Am T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Seuss is Dead T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Star Bellied Sneeches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sylvester McMonkey McBean (aka Snitches) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Theodor Seuss Geisel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Whoville T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Bob Hayes, Dave Veldhaus 1992|
|Page Views:||116 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||TomCaldwell on Oct 19, 2011|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites. Details
The USFS has closed a number of routes because they are located in close proximity to historical and archaeological sites. The following routes are closed indefinitely: Cindy Lou's Left Tube Seuss Seuss Sudio Fox in Locks.
Be aware, there may be more.
Be aware, there may be more.
DescriptionThis one is exciting and for all the wrong reasons. Probably doesn't see many ascents and it shows. This route is very serious having lots of fragile rock to negotiate, even during long runouts. It is advisable to have your belayer hide under the overhang at the start and wear a helmet.
Start in a wide broken crack. Move up the crack into another broken crack, placing gear when the rock is good. Move hard right to the base of a water groove looking feature. Move up the groove getting gear in horizontals along the way trending towards the prominent chickenhead. Sling the chicken head with a 4' sling and get on top of it. Above this is the crux and the R section. Make delicate moves up the dirty, slick, mossy face to get to the plates way above. Once at the plates, find some gear and either move up or hard right to the anchors on Griptospuridiam.
On our ascent, we did not see a slung tree, but traversed right to the bolts on Gripto. Note that if you do the traverse, there are many loose plates up high, but are some good chickenheads to sling down low. Slinging the chickenheads down low will prevent the rope from knocking one of the plates loose.
LocationThis route is on the far left side of the wall. From the approach trail, walk left past the rock house, look for the overhanging finger crack of Griptospuridiam and move to the left side of that buttress. There is an obvious large chickenhead above a groove about midway up the face.
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