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The Dude Abides

5.11c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m), Grade V,  Avg: 2.7 from 127 votes
FA: Don McGlone, John Aragon
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Chica Bonita Wall

Description

This route involves a bouldery start through sloping edges that will bring the pump early. Stickclip highly recommended. After a series of spicy clipping stances you reach a ledge for a break. Notice the fossilized bamboo stick on the rock next to you! Take a break before climbing sustained slopy edges and pockets all the way to the top. Crux moves occur at bolt 5, and don't expect a break at the end!

The Dude Abides will surprise those dependent upon the 3rd edition RRG guidebook - the rating of 5.11a is usually discredited. To those who believe in the 5.11a rating, "obviously, you're not a golfer."

Location

Upon approaching Chica Bonita Wall, it is after the 4 short sport routes. It is the first tall sport climb up a slightly overhung face to the right of a corner.

Protection

7 bolts with 2 bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing The Dude Abides at Chica Bonita
[Hide Photo] Climbing The Dude Abides at Chica Bonita
The Dude Abides
[Hide Photo] The Dude Abides
The Dude Abides is the beautiful line to the right on me (on Raindancer).
[Hide Photo] The Dude Abides is the beautiful line to the right on me (on Raindancer).
The Dude
[Hide Photo] The Dude

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steven Lee
El Segundo, CA
[Hide Comment] Careful with this route. There are some spinners on it according to my buddy that climbed it (6/22). He also said it's not an 11a and should be rated higher. Take heed... Jun 26, 2014
Paul Park
San Jose CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Definitely a sandbag at 11a in the guidebook. The bottom section is pumpy and tough to start if you're on the smaller side. Lots of deceiving chalked up slopers. Upper section is easier with good side pull pockets at around 5.10b/c Sep 8, 2015
Daniel Kaye
Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] Attempted it 3 times this past weekend, my new nemesis. All the bolts are (now?) glue-ins, so no spinners and I didn't notice any 'spicy clipping stances', although not easy, maybe the new bolt locations fixed this?

11c in new guidebook, maybe still stiff though.

After the starting boulder (or skipping it by stemming the corner and traversing in) there seem to be multiple routes to the top underclings, edges, and sidepulls of varying degrees of goodness, which imho deliver a decent pump before you can reach the rest ledge (this was crux for me, didn't find anything hard at the fifth bolt...). I agree with Paul, it's not over but the upper section isn't as hard, look for less/unchalked underclings and such. Oct 21, 2019
Bryan Strike
Atlanta, GA
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] 11c/d for sure. Rough start off the ground leads to a quick no hands rest below the first bolt (not that you need it). Stays on ya the whole way but it was my favorite in the area. Oct 2, 2020
Kevin Crittenden
St. Louis, MO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The start was a little cryptic to figure out but after that the route actually flows quite nicely. Crux moves are at bolt 4, not 5 (you're sitting on a ledge when clipping the 5th lol). It lets up a bit after the ledge but I wouldn't quite call it 10b/c. Solid route! Sep 26, 2022
Willow Jordan
Lexington, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Hardest part is definitely below the ledge. There was one section that I had trouble with where I found myself traversing right on good feet and bad hands. Also, going up to the ledge is a pretty big reach off of bad holds. Mar 12, 2023