PRINT: Rock Climb Esprit d'escalier, Quebec

Esprit d'escalier

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m), Grade III,

Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > Quebec > 05. Cantons-de-… > Mont Pinacle > f. Boston Wall

Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

Description

Excellent crack going up the upper slabs of the Boston wall

Location

Upper section of the "Mur de Boston". Can be more easily accessed by rappelling from the summit. To join the path, walk to the top of the center talus field and look for a narrow path going towards the lake. Exposed kiking traverse to reach two bolt.

You can also climb the slabs below and make a link up. Head a little left for the top of the slabs to easily locate the chains

Protection

Double up to BD 0.75

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Boston Wall
<br>
27 One new steo everyday 5.10c
<br>
28 Esprit d'escalier 5.9
<br>
29 Invitation (entrée libre) 5.12b
<br>
30 Maid in Québec 5.7

Boston Wall 27 One new steo everyday 5.10c 28 Esprit d'escalier 5.9 29 Invitation (entrée libre) 5.12b 30 Maid in Québec 5.7

Début de la traverse d'approche protégée par 4 scellements et 1 piton. On peut trouver la première bolt à droite du secteur grand dièdre.

Climber in the crux of the route

Climber going up the crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Franck Vee

5.9

This would be Mont Pinacle 5.9 - so expect a solid 9, althought it's not as sandbag as other climbs in here. That being said, good gear and amazing finger locks await. Aug 12, 2018

Maxime Castilloux
Newport

On peut maintenant facilement accéder à ce secteur par une traverse protégée par ~3 scellements et 1 piton. Le début de la traverse est juste en bas à droite du secteur grand dièdre.

Prenez le sentier qui mène au grand dièdre après le secteur planétarium et redescendez un peu, c'est plus long de passer par le sentier menant au secteur école.

Sep 10, 2020

Alex Charron

5.9

Great route with good protection. One of the best cracks at Pinacle. Sep 10, 2023