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Routes in Lower Broadway

A Christian Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockjob T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Colby Martin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highway To Hell T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Incredible Overhanging Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Lady Elaine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Midway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up and Coming T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wind Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: June Lehman, John Christian, Sally Greenwood - 1970
Page Views: 1,189 total · 14/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Interesting route for "up and coming" trad leaders.

P1: Climb up and right to a couple of small, left-facing corners. Use the face and inside corners to continue moving up and right, aiming for the large ledge at the base of the south end of the Cockscomb. The route finishes up near the P1 belay for Old Ladies Route.

A good alternative is to break the route into two pitches. On P2, work up and left and climb to the top of Humphrey's Head. Rap off Humphrey's Head to Luncheon Ledge.


Lower Broadway Ledge, about even with the right edge of Humphrey's Head.


Standard Seneca rack


Kristan Markey
Washington, DC
Kristan Markey   Washington, DC
We went a full 165 feet up to the intersection of Old Ladies Route. Jan 20, 2013
Travis Senor
Mailing Address in NC
Travis Senor   Mailing Address in NC
Great climb, and the corner stemming is fun. Good gear throughout and far preferable to A Christian Delight just next door. Oct 6, 2013
Joffrey Peters
Lebanon, NH
Joffrey Peters   Lebanon, NH
I managed to get off route left, ending up by Humphrey's Head near the end of A Christian Delight. This is not advisable, and is a little harder than 5.4. When the route description says "trend right", they mean pretty hard right, not the continuous corner system that flows up and gently right toward Humphrey's head. Jun 11, 2015
If your climbing around a lot of trees your doing it right. Kind of awkward to climb Nov 26, 2016
Chad Silva
Chad Silva  
I also got off route left, but that was mostly by design. I knew I wanted to rap off HH, but built my anchor at its base (instead of somewhere midroute). Nov 5, 2018

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