Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: June Lehman, John Christian, Sally Greenwood - 1970
Page Views: 2,536 total · 17/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: Andy Weinmann

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Interesting route for "up and coming" trad leaders.

P1: Climb up and right to a couple of small, left-facing corners. Use the face and inside corners to continue moving up and right, passing a pine tree after the real difficulties.  At this point you basically need to traverse pretty directly right and aim for the large ledge at the base of the south end of the Cockscomb. The route finishes up near the P1 belay for Old Ladies Route.

A good alternative is to break the route into two pitches, stopping at a comfortable ledge with a smaller birch tree and vertical cracks in the blocks for gear. On P2, either step back down and right to continue on Up and Coming or work up and left and climb to the top of Humphrey's Head to rap off Humphrey's Head to Luncheon Ledge.

Location Suggest change

Lower Broadway Ledge, about even with the right edge of Humphrey's Head.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Seneca rack