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Routes in Deep Creek

Handshakes (Little Hemlock Wall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adventurete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airnet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bayou Boy (Hemlock Block) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bonsai! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bootleggers Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Casual Friday S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Compression Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cool Watas' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deep Show, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deep Throat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deep Water Horizon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ear, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Hondo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ermahgerd S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flat and Sassy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flight of the intruder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flock, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Freak Magnet S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ga'Jamit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ginger's Day Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Soldier S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Herd, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holy and Hip S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Exchange for Silence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Invasion, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Deep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leakage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lights of the Dead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marble Tea S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moderate Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mole, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mongo Fury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mucho a un Poquito S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nuggz S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Occams Blazer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Habits S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Proven Ground S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quarter Height Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seasoned S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shepard, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slab Bastard S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soup Dragon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splendid Isolation S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Strutter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tabernacle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Table Scraps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Mint S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tooth and Nail S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown 7 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertigo (Hemlock Block) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wetter the Better, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whipping Post S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Within Sight S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Woodshed, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,432 total, 46/month
Shared By: JohnWesely on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Leakage is one amazing haul. Without any of the no hands rest that plague the other routes on the wall, Leakage requires some real recovery. The shakeouts are there but each one yields a little less, and the climbing doesn't let up until the top.

Location

Leakage is located on the left side of the Main Wall and is identified by a slightly lower than normal first bolt and a crack feature up high.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

I think once you have climbed more at deep creek you would say 12a. It is the standard for the grade there. Quite a bit easier than Occam's Blazer for sure. Jul 2, 2012
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
FWIW, I was told Leakage was 12b by other climbers. The rating on enduro routes is always going to be wonky. Having slightly better endurance can be the difference between a quickly ticking pump clock and getting full recovery on every move. Apr 4, 2012
Kyle Benge
Collegedale, TN
Kyle Benge   Collegedale, TN
On the first attempt this route did seem harder, but once you've figured out the movement it's not so bad. A few fun technical moves at the bottom lead to jugs the rest of the way. This route is one of my favorite that i've done so far at deep creek. I'd give it a 12a/b... There's really not a small hold on the route. It may have been rated 12b because it is more sustained then some of the other 12a's... AND STEEP! (but most everything is steep here). Lower off about 35 feet from the base of the cliff! Good route. Nov 28, 2011
Michael Penn
Colorado Springs, CO
5.12b
Michael Penn   Colorado Springs, CO
5.12b
I will admit that I have been a little disingenuous with my route comparisons. Two of them I did as a far less developed climber and one I have done probably 100 or more times. My comment mostly comes from conversations with my friend Warren. His "guide" for Deep Creek had the grade on leakage scratched out and written in as 12b, from that and a conversation we had comparing it to the aforementioned classics I thought the grade was fairly accepted. I am surprised by such strong feeling toward this grade and I will certainly defer to your judgment. The fact that I am new to the area and I honestly haven't spent much time climbing on 5.12's lately make me a less suitable judge for the grade of this climb. Nov 22, 2011
yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
I'm trying to follow rule #1 and not be a jerk but I wanted to finish my thoughts on grades and try to stop grade inflation at Deep Creek.
To compare this with some showpiece 12b routes (Mercy (RRG), Easy Skanking (Rifle), Technosurfing (Rumney), Mentor (VRG), Super Mickey (Ceuse), Mr. Big (Potrero), Great White Behemoth or Happiness in Slavery (Tensleep)), it's easier than all of them. To say that Leakage is as hard as Jesus and Tequila is laughable. Leakage is all jugs and fairly straightforward. Nov 22, 2011
yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
I have a quick question: what is MP.com's accepted ethic for adding routes and their grades? My policy has always been to go with the accepted guidebook grade when I enter a route and then mention any thoughts one way or the other in the comments or grade vote. Is this the standard or do others go with a different approach? I ask because the standard accepted grade for Leakage is 12a. It's not a new route (a few years old with many people climbing on it) and it has a consensus grade (12a). Nov 22, 2011
Michael Penn
Colorado Springs, CO
5.12b
Michael Penn   Colorado Springs, CO
5.12b
I think 12b is fine for this route. I personally thought it was quite a bit harder than strutter, but I haven't tried occum's. I think if you compare it to other classic 12b's around the country: Mercy the Huff, Easy Skankin', Technosurfin' etc the grade(and quality) seems very similar. Nov 21, 2011
D Snyder
Virgin, Utah
D Snyder   Virgin, Utah
If John thinks it's 12b it's probably 11d. But I heard 11d is the new 12b so he's probably spot on. Nov 6, 2011
GMBurns  
That Weseley dude is soft. I watched him brownpoint a 5.6 in the 'Gunks once. He has no idea what he's talking about. Nov 6, 2011
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
In my buddy John's defense, while his assessment may not match the consensus, he is generally solid at the grade/style in question and is by nature not a grandstander. Either way, it looks fun! Deep Creek is an awesome crag. Nov 5, 2011
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12a
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
  5.12a
Well...it's 12a. Don't know what to tell you. Go do Occamm's Blazer and Strutter which are 12b and you'll see the difference. Nov 4, 2011
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
I have never been on a harder 12a and have been on easier 12b's. Nov 3, 2011
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12a
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
  5.12a
Yep, 12a. Nov 3, 2011
yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
Leakage is 12a. Oct 18, 2011