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Routes in Crystal Lake Crag

Ace Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete of Regret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Electric Dylan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerbang TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Garbage Chute T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I'm Lichen This TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Leaper Route, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Armed Swordsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocktease T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tourist Route, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Waste of Time T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 105 total, 1/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Road Closures Details

Description

This is a strange, non-uniform crack with some funky moves. Head up the first bit (the crux) to an easy ledge stance, then up the remaining part of the crack, where the crack edges become quite sharp.

Small loose rocks lie near the top, so be cautious.

One can walk up to the top via some class 3 rock on the far right.

Note: This route was previously called "Call Your Doctor" until I talked with Keith about it and he filled me in on the name he gave it back in the day.

Location

Approximate coords: 34.31822°N / 117.84911°W

This route lies just around the corner from Ace Dick. It is easy to spot on the way up by the graffiti on the wall near the ground. This route takes the crack just to the right of the graffiti.

Protection

Standard rack to 4" or less. I used hexes. The placements are rather odd as the rock's not real good. A tree serves as the anchor on top. Use a LONG cord or webbing anchor to TR this climb in order to avoid as much loose rock as possible.

Photos

Jeff Edge  
 
This was my favorite route from the day I climbed here, wasn't terribly hard to protect--although getting my first piece (a cam) into that first crack was pretty dang awkward from standing on the ledge (trying to get the dang cam in blind was definitely the crux)(you can put a small one in on the right if you're off balance trying to protect the crack). Other than that very interesting moves, top wasn't hard to protect watch out for loose rock...it looks like you could go left to the anchor of ace dick instead of up to the tree, if you heart really desired that. Mar 13, 2013
Climb To Safety
california
 
Climb To Safety   california
 
this was a fun route. description is spot on, but at the time we thought we were climbing ace dick, didn't realize til after we got home that we actually climbed the leaper route. i still found this route to be pretty simple, mainly because you can protect the route pretty well with some small cams/nuts. Feb 14, 2012