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Routes in Crystal Lake Crag

Ace Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete of Regret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Electric Dylan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerbang TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Garbage Chute T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I'm Lichen This TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Leaper Route, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Armed Swordsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocktease T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tourist Route, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Waste of Time T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 521 total, 7/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Road Closures Details

Description

This is a nice looking route from the ground. It would be great if the rock didn't turn to crap 3/4 of the way up. Thus, this route is best TR'ed from the same ol' anchor 'pocket' as the other routes on Choss Boss Crag.

The rock surface texture becomes sandy and will not hold pro higher up. A fall here would not be fun. It is still a nice little route with a good alpine feel to it for the area.

Location

Rough coords: 34.31808°N / 117.84916°W

Hike up to the Ace Dick wall, then head south a bit. Stay under the crags. After a couple hundred feet, you should be able to view the Choss Boss Crag (which this route is on) ahead and on the right. Virgin Mary on a Schwinn and Arete of Regret start at the bottom of the crag under the large tree.

To descend back to the lake, walk south under the tree, and then descend the long scree gully. This is faster and more fun than the scree gully used to access the other routes.

Protection

Typical trad rack. Small nuts came in handy. Long draws help cut down on ropedrag. There is a small horn 3/4 of the way up that I have slung and rapped/retreated off of before. Not a good piece when you're above it but it's good info to have...

Again, the same anchor bits for the neighboring Tourist Route, I'm Lichen This, and Virgin Mary on a Schwinn apply. I bring some nuts (or small cams) and a long cord or webbing for the anchor in a solid stance at the left edge of the rock at the top (You can't miss it).

Photos

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