Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 148 total · 2/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Road Closures Details

Description

This route was done after Arete of Regret proved to be a bad lead climb. This route has easy moves with some nice exposure and a decent alpine feel. The rock is generally good. Nearer the top the feeling improves with better views and a dropoff to the left. The route is slightly runout but the climbing never desperate.

Location

Rough coords: 34.31808°N / 117.84916°W

Hike up to the Ace Dick wall, then head south a bit. Stay under the crags. After a couple hundred feet, you should be able to view the Choss Boss Crag (which this route is on) ahead and on the right. Virgin Mary on a Schwinn and Arete of Regret start at the bottom of the crag under the large tree.

To descend back to the lake, walk south under the tree, and then descend the long scree gully. This is faster and more fun than the scree gully used to access the other routes.

Protection

Typical trad rack. I used a few large nuts and a #2.5 Tricam on this route.

Again, the same anchor bits for the neighboring Tourist Route, I'm Lichen This, and Arete of Regret apply. I bring some nuts (or small cams) and a long cord or webbing for the anchor in a solid stance at the left edge of the rock at the top (You can't miss it).

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