Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 388 total · 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Oct 16, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Another powerful and technical Spearfish Canyon 5.10c that will have all you newbies scratching your head and might possibly leave a few brown streaks in your shorts.

This fine route of excellence starts on a blocky face which soon leads to overhung slopers to a deep crack that leads to a pod escape.

"Oh my God! Which way do I go! I do I get past this section?!"

Calm down! Don't wet yourself. Treat this bad boy like a crack climb with a sequence of pockets and ledges on the face. Put your back into it and get your stemming feet and jamming toes ready for action. The initial roof pull gets a bit more doable if you stay right and use some slow, thoughtful moves to set yourself up for some powerful pulls and deadpoints. The long slug to the anchors gets a bit tight and mighty techy after that and crack climbing skills are a must. Use those feet and toes! Extend your legs all the way and reeeeach for that next jug! DO THIS CLIMB! Get way up there till a close shave makes your stomach drop.

This is definately, without a doubt, one of the stouter moderates in the Canyon that calls for a clear lead head and a set of skills most ninjas don't possess. This climb is not a warm-up! It is a loooong way up! Don't even think for a moment that this will be the last climb you squeeze in before the sun goes down because it will squeeze you out and take you down! The moves on this route are involved, thought provoking and you will be guaranteed to be engaged for quite some time before the fat lady sings...that is, if you even make it to the big show.

Don't let anyone in the peanut gallery fool you, Bald/Shaved is a flat out canyon classic and a winner of my unique award for the high level of bravery needed to climb it. Because of the endurance required and the skills set and boldness needed to take it down this climb deserves a pair of truck nuts...that are bald and shaved!


To the very left of Albert's Arete.


15 quickdraws