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Route 5

5.10c, Sport, TR, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 23 votes
FA: unknown
Hawaii > Oahu > Makapu'u Point

Description

Climb the relatively easy face and crack to the overhang, clip the first bolt of the overhang, and then wonder what in the world you are supposed to do next. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen a route with such an easy start for such a difficult finish. These are probably the hardest moves at the crag, but, again, it's only the last 5 feet of the route. Route 5 on the Topo.

Protection

Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

blue is sport, red is trad, yellow is top rope only.
[Hide Photo] blue is sport, red is trad, yellow is top rope only.
Early morning lap on Route 5. Not sure which grade variation this is hahaha. Feels like a solid 5.9
[Hide Photo] Early morning lap on Route 5. Not sure which grade variation this is hahaha. Feels like a solid 5.9

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Blodg
seattle
[Hide Comment] We tried many times to go up the face on the over hang. The sloppers were just to bad. We ended up all finishing it by going to the left toward the top. Hope to hear back if someone makes it straight up that overhang. Dec 14, 2015
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route directly up the face, avoiding the crack/big flake/dihedral to the right and crack to the left. It's pretty thin with this start, and more consistent difficulty with the finish. The overhang can definitely be climbed directly, with a key foot jam helpful to reach the higher, less slopey holds. Done this way, I think it is ~.11a Sep 1, 2016
davidhousky
Lake Forest, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed up the face of the crux using a dyno. If you get high enough you can really stick the deeper slope holds up there and just hang on. You're not home free once you hit it though! Scrambling up over the face is awkward, and I had to quit right at the anchor because I was so pumped from practicing the dyno. Jan 12, 2017
[Hide Comment] Go straight up the face! Using the arete on the left or the crack on the right makes it feel too much like crossing into an easier route. Upon reaching the overhang, using the left side to scramble up makes it feel like a .10 grade climb, but directly up an over straight to bolts might get this into high .10 category. Could not stick beta to go straight up and over. Jan 6, 2019
Ryan Moss
Haleiwa, HI
 
[Hide Comment] I think it’s a climb that grows on you. I remember absolutely hating this climb and thinking there was no way I would ever be able to clip the anchors. There’s a solid toe down foot jam with your right foot under the roof. The right side of the first pocket above the bolt makes it feel better. Match that then bump hand to the next hold above high and left. There’s a solid foot hold under the roof that allows you to then make progress up and to the anchors. The route feels extremely hard compared to all the other routes. But, it’s short and fun. Nov 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] Eliminate everything down low except the direct crimp line up the face, top out straight over the bulge, and it goes as 5.11 something, and is a better, more sustained climb (albeit contrived). But be careful not to grease or you'll deck on the ledge...the bolts aren't set for the eliminate beta. Mar 28, 2020
[Hide Comment] Sent this route direct "Big forehead *Direct*" from start to finish. Start where the climb starts with a climb up an arete boulder problem to the first. My goal was to stay on the bolt line: I didn't touch the crack to the left or any holds near it. I didn't use the right wall (including the flake). I climbed the crux direct as well using a precise dead point. It goes at 5.11c in my opinion and is the hardest route at makapuu. I would also give this route a PG-13 grade because I needed to extend the second clip so that I wouldn't hit the shelf below. Have fun :) Dec 10, 2020
Robby Purple
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Ignore all the jugs and you'll get a solid 5.11 climb here. Start is powerful, middle is balancey, and the end is powerful and slopey. Jun 13, 2021
Ryan Moss
Haleiwa, HI
 
[Hide Comment] Can someone please tell me who took it upon themselves to give the routes at Maks names? They are absolutely horrible. They have gone unnamed for so long. No one and I mean absolutely no one wants to say they “high balled” , soloed, or climbed a route called big forehead. Feb 11, 2022