PRINT: Rock Climb A Slice of The Ice, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth

A Slice of The Ice

5.7, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 1.8 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Duty Dome - War… > Duty Dome

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

P1 5.7 (mixed) 4 bolts on a steep slab with good flow and delicate moves. Follow bolts up and right to chains on a comfortable ledge. Cracks for a couple pieces.

P2 (Sport, 4 bolts) look right to shiny low angle slab. Easy friction moves, all bolts to anchor at base of head wall. You can anchor from P1 ledge.

P3 (Trad) follow slabby ramp left of anchor. Go around corner and up blocks to a thoughtful mantel move. Do not go left to nasty gully. Top move, Follow left weakness to chains. Gear BD single rack to 1. ( A 4 for the last pitch is nice.)

Location

Once at Duty Dome, fifty feet up hill from Heart of Gold and 20 feet below mossy deep gully. Steep slab mostly bolted with delicate, fun moves.

Protection

Single Rack to 1” and a 4”

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2nd pitch

Third pitch ramp

Bottom of first pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA

5.7

This is actually a really nice multi pitch for a 5.7 climber.
1st pitch mostly trad.70' bolted anchor
2nd pitch trad and 4 widely spaced bolts on low angle slab 90' bolted anchor
3rd pitch is the crux with a slightly hard to protect left ward traverse, up around corner, but not into vegetated gully, makes a non- obvious move around roofs/ledges to go out onto big slab above- pretty run-out but low angle to top of dome. Jan 25, 2014

Gosh Glance
Seattle, WA

5.7

This is a fun outing. P1 is outstanding- especially for 5.7, three stars! P2 isn't great, but actually has a couple bolted 5.5 moves.

Some P3 beta: it is a bit funky, but in a good way, feels alpine. Extend your gear before 'rounding the corner, and as soon as you do, start scanning the face on your right for signs of wear. Where exactly you get up onto the easy finishing slab is a bit inobvious, but it's well before the vegetated gulley further up. If you guess wrong, you'll immediately see the weakness you were meant to follow, and it's easy to step back down (adjust pro), and finish properly. Sep 26, 2024