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Routes in Willard

Ad Astra Per Aspera T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Air to Spare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Southwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Willard Canyon Waterfall T WI3
Win Bigly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Pete Vanslooten, Rob Candland, Shayne Durfee, Troy Anderson
Page Views: 2,082 total, 28/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

PITCH ONE Climb easy terrain to a sling belay on a ledge (50' ish)

PITCH TWO From the sling belay walk up a ledge to a straight in crack. This is the only crack up a right of the belay that you can hand-jam for a few feet. Climb the crack to a few bolts.

After the second bolt arch left around a small corner and clip another bolt. Note: this is where I "wimped" out and avoided the good climbing by arching left to easier terrain. After clipping this bolt, make your way straight up to a giant ledge with a bolted anchor. We named this RED LEDGE because of the Giant red band of rock visible from Willard.

PITCH THREE Start up and right of the belay about 15 feet. Climb and arch left past some cam placements to bolts leading through a steep red face directly above the belay.

This is the crux for the route. It has bolts where you want and doesn't have bolts where you also want them. After arching up and left past bolts, climb left (north) for a few feet, then travel straight up past a few fixed pitons to a bolted belay.

PITCH FOUR The fourth pitch gains a big ledge then climbs straight above the belay. About 12-15 feet up, there is a great horn to sling, then a bolt, piton, and a bolt to a small ledge with a bolted anchor.

If you are in doubt of where to start the first pitch, look high and you'll see the bolts in a clean face. At the end of pitch five arch left (north) to the anchor.

PITCH FIVE Climb up a left to a fixed pin. Ascend straight up past more fixed pins and finish out a small roof crack. Above the roof, clip and anchor and continue to the summit!

Location

The route is above Willard Utah. To find the start, hike the Willard Falls trail. Find the easiest path towards the great talus up and right (south) of the creek. Hike to the highest point of the talus. There is/was a kairn at the start of the route. LOOK FOR THE GIANT RED BAND OF ROCK the route travels through the middle of it.

Protection

Cams to #3 Black Diamond. Doubles on small cams. One set of nuts. Slings. 70 meter rope or two 60 meter ropes. Helmets. A good sense of rock navigation.
matt evans
salt lake city, UT
 
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
 
Really fun route, pitch 3 was tough for a 5.9. Guess that's why FAers called it 5.9+. Left some real treasures in the summit box from tijuana at the top this time. No old sausage junk. Hurry up there though because, just like sausage, it will expire. Jun 21, 2015
john bald
  5.10- PG13
john bald  
  5.10- PG13
Beautiful stone on this route. Hats off to the fa team. A well crafted classic. With a little TLC this climb is destined to become more popular. We did the 6th ascent. All tat was removed and replace with fresh for the season. Chains w/links would be appreciated. Recommend two ropes as there was more than one rope stretcher w/our 70. Crux reminded me of Eldo. Wall felt like Hayden, remote and adventuresome. Better than anything on the Castle! Jun 9, 2015
Bill Bones  
 
I have heard there are treasures up there too. Brought all the way from Tijuana ;) Oct 20, 2011
bus driver  
 
Yo Stevie Nacho. Good route. Now Ogden has a devils castle.

Treasures and tales await conquistadores on the summit. . .those who follow should tell a tale and leave a relic. Oct 16, 2011
Bill Bones  
 
Once you are on the willard falls trail you will see the clif band to your right. When the trail bottles up you cross the river and head up the long scree field. When you see the trees bunched up in an obvious flat part of the cliff band you are getting close. Oct 12, 2011
Bill Bones  
 
youtu.be/04lTuIwgu1Y

Video of the First Accent Oct 12, 2011