Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wonder Wall

Arno's Corrner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ladyslipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Unicorn, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route to Root T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Science Friction Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Three Saints T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Waiting for Webster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Wonders Never Cease T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Webster & Patenaude, '79
Page Views: 242 total, 3/month
Shared By: cjdrover on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Ladyslipper climbs the improbable-looking face directly above the large flake on the Upper Wonder Wall ledge. It can be thought of as a direct start to Harvest, which climbs the dihedral/flake 20 feet to the left.

P1) From the Upper Wonder Wall Ledge, climb the corner below a large flake with a tree on top (careful of loose blocks!) Belay from the tree. (5.6ish, 50 feet)

P2) Continue to the top of flake and clip a bolt. Make devious, technical moves up to the second bolt, trending right, then continue up to a flake system. Carefully fish out a gear placement or two (finger-sized cams) and climb to the top of the flakes. More technical moves take you through another 3 bolts to a stance below the main corner. Make a committing step to the left with the bolt well below your feet to reach the crack system. Jam (hand-sized cams) and stem your way up the corner to reach a 2-bolt anchor at the top of a huge block/flake - perhaps the best belay seat in North Conway? (5.9+, 75 feet)

If you really want to top out, head left and join the end of Harvest at 5.7R, but it really isn't worth it unless that sort of thing matters to you.

Location

See another description for accessing the upper Wonder Wall Ledge. Find the obvious 40 foot high flake with a tree near the top.

Protection

5 QD's + basic cams fingers to hands, maybe a few nuts.

Some old texts might give this an R rating but the fixed gear was recently replaced, all 5 bolts are nice shiny steel. It is heady but reasonably safe.

Two ropes helpful, though the tree at the first belay has rap rings.

Photos

0 Comments