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Routes in Gastlosen

Chemin Perdu 5c S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elsa 6c S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hello Marco 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
L'escalier des Aigles 4c S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
La balade du chamois 4c S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Luna Park 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rêve de marmotte 5a S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 1200 ft, 11 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 671 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Oct 6, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

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A recommended route that takes a mostly mellow path up to one of the taller peaks.

11 pitches, 6a

P1-3 5b, 5a, 5b. Route name marked at base. Possible to link 1-2 together with 60s by a bit of simulclimbing.

P4 6a One airy move up an overhang gives the grade, otherwise just fun climbing.

P5 5c+++ What the wha….? If you love slab climbing, you'll love this pitch. Otherwise… bombs away!

P6 5c Shortish nice pitch up to a topout with two anchors; next pitch starts across a gully to the right, so best to just keep going here and belay from the bottom of p7.

P7-9 More good fun on ridge-textured rock, also another place between p 8-9 where you have to walk over some grass to get to the next belay. Just follow the red arrows (nice touch).

P10 Bit of a kooky pitch, but fun! After going straight up a bit, walk again across some grass and punch through some fun moves on a mini-tower arete to the comfy belay ledge. Or like I did, belay at the base of the mini-tower on one old yellow bolt (plus some gear) to make two short pitches with better communication.

P11 To the top! Enjoy the view.

6 rappels on 60m ropes, again following the red arrows to some dedicated rap stations.


On the Pfadflue section, see Plaisir West or for details. Best parking at Oberi Bire.


At least 16 draws including some long slings. A light rack is not a bad idea, but no placements were essential as the route is nicely bolted.


Here is a quick route description. This route is fabulous and highly recommended!… Jun 24, 2014

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