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Routes in Mystery Rock

Alliteration Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whoazzur Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a climb with 20 feet of very good climbing in a crack followed by reasonable climbing for 65 additional feet. The climb may feel somewhat misnamed. Although it is characterized by a crack at the bottom, it is only 1/3 of the climb and wider than fingers for half of that, ranging from 0.75" to 2". After the crack, head up and slightly left passing a short-needled fir to the left side of it, then up and left more to pass a long-needled pine to the right side before cutting more sharply left (maybe slightly run-out, but on very moderate terrain) to head up and left to the bolted anchor with rap hangers at the top of the climb 'Open Book.' The slight run-out up top can be avoided by going left under the pine and finishing via the 2 bolts on the top of "Open Book." Rap 85'.

Location

This is the obvious and striking finger to thin-hands crack on the uphill right side of the crag, starting from a natural platform at the cliff's base above a short, loose gully.

Protection

A rack from 0.5-3" and a single bolt, or 3 bolts finishing on the other route.

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