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Routes in Alcove Entrance Boulder

Cobble Poppin' V8 7B
Stoned Highway V4 6B
Trance Space V7- 7A+
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 574 total, 8/month
Shared By: cstorms on Oct 4, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start sitting on the right arete with a small left hand crimp and good right handhold. Throw your right heel on and slap your right hand up to a decent sloper. Move left hand up to a good sloping edge with a thumb catch, and then right hand up to another similar hold with a thumb catch. Use intermediate crimps to slap your left hand up and out left to some jugs and top out.

Location

Start on right arete of the Alcove Entrance Boulder and climb the face. This is to the right of Cobble Poppin'.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

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Joe M.    
I'm not saying you can or can't, just if you read Tim Kemple's description, he didn't use a heel hook or anything right of the arete. I tried it the way he described it and it is harder, contrived because there are better hand holds and a heel hook less than a foot to the right but harder.... Dec 6, 2011
cstorms
North Bend, OR
 
cstorms   North Bend, OR
 
So you can't use a heel hook on Trance Space? I never climbed the problem until I had someone point out all the moves to me to make sure I did it the right way... it is a little confusing when you sit down in front of it. Yeah, I thought Cobble Poppin' wasn't as bad as most 8s I've done. Both fun problems tho. Dec 6, 2011
Joe M.    
I think Trance Space could be V7 if you do it the way Tim described it in his NE bouldering guidebook. The description here and the youtube "beta" videos (there are 2 both with to me, invalid squat start ascents) are not they way he described it, basically he didn't use the heel hook and did use a hidden undercling pocket left of the arete instead of the good holds around the arete. This seems to be a case of refined (better?) beta made this problem easier. Cobble Poppin' seems V8 to me, but I might be missing some key beta.... Dec 5, 2011
cstorms
North Bend, OR
 
cstorms   North Bend, OR
 
Yeah, this and Cobble Poppin' are probably at least a grade easier, but those seem to be the consensus grades. Dec 5, 2011
Lucas
Asheville, NC
V5
Lucas   Asheville, NC
V5
Fun problem, probably closer to a V4 than a V7...but fun nonetheless. Dec 4, 2011