Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 842 total · 5/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This is a good route for beginning trad leaders and mixed climbers, as there are several easy ledges to place gear from. This route is blocky and easy. Lichen makes smearing difficult. Once you figure out the simple sequence of moves, it's a very easy route.

Location Suggest change

This is the first route you encounter by taking the scree slope on the right side of CLC. It is easily identifiable by the graffiti at the base of the crag, facing north. Go around the corner to the south facing crag and you'll see more graffiti, a penis that says 'Ace' on it. Route goes straight up the ace dick!

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack of cams and nuts. The cracks in the lower half of the route work great for cams and large nuts, and a flake up top is good for small nuts. Anchor up top is a Granite/Quartz crack, good for nuts and smaller cams. Bring a long length of cord (+/-20ft)to extend the anchor out over the edge of the rock to cut down on ropedrag. Pad the edge with something to protect the cord. There is a class 3 walkoff to the left of the anchor.

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