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Ace Dick [Suggest Change]
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 3
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Routes in Crystal Lake Crag
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Ace Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Arete of Regret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Conveniently Sexy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Electric Dylan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fingerbang TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Garbage Chute T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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I'm Lichen This TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Leaper Route, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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One Armed Swordsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocktease T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tourist Route, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Waste of Time T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zatoichi At Large T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft |
| FA: | Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's |
| Page Views: | 118 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | TacoDelRio on Oct 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Road Closures
Details
Route 39 is closed at times due to fire, snowfall, and road damage.
Description [Suggest Change]
This is a good route for beginning trad leaders and mixed climbers, as there are several easy ledges to place gear from. This route is blocky and easy. Lichen makes smearing difficult. Once you figure out the simple sequence of moves, it's a very easy route.
Location [Suggest Change]
This is the first route you encounter by taking the scree slope on the right side of CLC. It is easily identifiable by the graffiti at the base of the crag, facing north. Go around the corner to the south facing crag and you'll see more graffiti, a penis that says 'Ace' on it. Route goes straight up the ace dick!
Protection [Suggest Change]
Standard rack of cams and nuts. The cracks in the lower half of the route work great for cams and large nuts, and a flake up top is good for small nuts. Anchor up top is a Granite/Quartz crack, good for nuts and smaller cams. Bring a long length of cord (+/-20ft)to extend the anchor out over the edge of the rock to cut down on ropedrag. Pad the edge with something to protect the cord. There is a class 3 walkoff to the left of the anchor.
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