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Routes in Crystal Lake Crag

Ace Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete of Regret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Electric Dylan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerbang TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Garbage Chute T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I'm Lichen This TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Leaper Route, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Armed Swordsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocktease T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tourist Route, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Waste of Time T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Road Closures Details

Description

This is a good route for beginning trad leaders and mixed climbers, as there are several easy ledges to place gear from. This route is blocky and easy. Lichen makes smearing difficult. Once you figure out the simple sequence of moves, it's a very easy route.

Location

This is the first route you encounter by taking the scree slope on the right side of CLC. It is easily identifiable by the graffiti at the base of the crag, facing north. Go around the corner to the south facing crag and you'll see more graffiti, a penis that says 'Ace' on it. Route goes straight up the ace dick!

Protection

Standard rack of cams and nuts. The cracks in the lower half of the route work great for cams and large nuts, and a flake up top is good for small nuts. Anchor up top is a Granite/Quartz crack, good for nuts and smaller cams. Bring a long length of cord (+/-20ft)to extend the anchor out over the edge of the rock to cut down on ropedrag. Pad the edge with something to protect the cord. There is a class 3 walkoff to the left of the anchor.

Photos

Jeff Edge  
 
Will likely take all of two cams to lead, maybe three if this is your grade, you'll actually probably use just as many pieces building the anchor. Climbed it with snow on the ground this past weekend, very short (felt like a highball V0 boulder problem) but I can't complain. Mar 13, 2013