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Routes in Crystal Lake Crag

Ace Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete of Regret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Electric Dylan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerbang TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Garbage Chute T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I'm Lichen This TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Leaper Route, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Armed Swordsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocktease T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tourist Route, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Waste of Time T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 1,961 total, 26/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Road Closures Details

Description

A fun fingers-hand crack that goes at around 5.7ish. One can also lieback some sections for a different feel. Climb up to the Oak tree ledge and use the tree as the anchor. Make sure your anchor takes the tree's health as well as rope-on-edge awareness into consideration.

Location

This route is on the north side of the crag near the top. It is easily identifiable by being a clean crack running up to the right of a beautiful clean blank face.

Protection

-I use a #0.75, #1, and #2 C4 to protect the route. Bring a single rack of cams from fingers to hands.
-Cordelette or webbing for anchor + lockers

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Good for you, Taco. Thanks for the time and effort. That slope and the approach are indeed unstable. Keep up the great work. Jul 20, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
I cleaned a LOT of loose rock the other day from above the route as well as on it.

I have also started to make a sort of trail to and from this area of the crags. Real unstable, but now there's at least a stable place to sit, organize gear, and cook with a stove. Jun 21, 2013
Jeff Edge  
 
Definitely a good route, belay is pretty awkward in the snow. Bring some long webbing for the tree anchor or be prepared to have rocks raining down if toproping. Mar 13, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
Like Jen said, bring a helmet! This is the San Gabes. :-) Lotta rocks ready to pounce! Apr 19, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
Had one... a helmet or belayer? Dec 2, 2011
Taco's guide is spot on, but the area is really chossy. One of the few places I'd give the helmet to the belayer if I only had one. Nov 29, 2011