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Routes in Lost Arrow Spire

Lost Arrow Chimney T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost Arrow Spire Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Lost Arrow Tip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 1400 ft, 16 pitches
FA: Pat Callis and Warren Harding, June 21,1968
Page Views: 12,807 total, 172/month
Shared By: Roger Suen on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

"With an easier approach than Half Dome, plenty of easy to moderate climbing and plush bivy ledges, Lost Arrow Direct is an excellent introductory wall. Nearby Yosemite Falls is stunning. The climbing is neither too steep nor too serious. This route is more involved and therefore harder than the South Face of Washington Column or Skull Queen but easier than The Prow."
-Supertopo
The Supertopo beta has all that you should need.

You can fill up water when the falls are pumping on the approach as you will come very close to them. Saves you some trouble there.

The wind whips out of the amphitheater pretty fiercely and expect to get sprayed by the falls. (Peeing can be an adventure)

Protection

C2 Aid Rack - Nuts Double, Cams Triple, Offset Aliens useful. Rivet Hangers, Hooks
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
Phenomenal bivy ledges. 50% shitty rock, 50% good rock. The shitty rock usually isn't too bad but its grainy and unpleasant. I believe I topstepped past the one hook placement on p2 making it something like 5.7 C1 (and I am by no means tall). The anchors at pitches 10 and 11 are shit. The anchor at P11 is 3 pins (seemingly good) with manky ass tat and is fully hanging. The anchor at P10 is 5 arrows/blades with manky ass tat. The anchor at P12 is two modern ASCA bolts with chain on one and tat on the other. The tip is quite nice however the anchor off the top is designed for a lateral pull(tyrolean/slackline). So when pulling the ropes down into the notch the rope drag is rather horrendous. This could be improved by addition of some chain. Oct 10, 2017
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
"The middle of the 2nd pitch is C3...60 foot fall potential". I don't recall that being the case. In fact, pitch 2 was my first ever C2 pitch and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy and well protected it was. The hooks and rivets were all in between great bolts when I did it in 2010. May 4, 2017
Emilio Rivera
Los Angeles, CA
Emilio Rivera   Los Angeles, CA
The middle of the 2nd pitch is C3. Have a variety of hooks ready, 60ft fall potential, caught me off guard. The approach is hell with a haulbag. Jan 19, 2017
Alex Palombitch
Bozeman, MT
Alex Palombitch   Bozeman, MT
FA: Pat Callis, Warren Harding Feb 25, 2016
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
LOST ARROW DIRECT 1975
In the fishbowl of Camp IV, it was not cool to be climbing with direct aid, or even worse, a bathook route! Young sinners were shunned by the older brothers of the rescue camp. But Warren Harding did not! He partied with the upstarts.


Davey Hammock, El Cap soloist and guardian of the Sandia Crest. He scored the bathooks!

That someone else would want to do this route too was incredible. Davy and I arrived at the base of the wall in the dark and woke up an equally surprised party of three. Tom Rohr, a totally self taught wall climber, introduced himself to us as "The Mad Bolter". Instead, The climbed the blank wall along side us with more bolts than we'd ever seen before. Dec 10, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Although a lot of this route is great rock, there are a couple of heads up sections. When we climbed this in 2011, I knocked off a rock in the 4th pitch chimney when i took a fall. This was before the new topos that clearly state "go left". Be sure you do that. Also, my partner took a pretty big fall on the 5th pitch when a microwave sized block cam off underneath the horizontal traverse. The rest of the route seemed great. Jun 6, 2014
CAUTION
There is a large disk shaped block precariously wedged in the top of the fourth pitch chimney, immediately before reaching First Error. Although the leader moves left onto the face before they would encounter the block, be aware of where your haul line is running (duh). Mar 2, 2014
The climbing on this route is extremely straightforward; in this, it is indeed suitable for the n00b. The logistics are another thing entirely, which is what sent the 3 guys from Wisconsin home with their laminated topos between their legs when we were up there.

The approach is burly and you might need a rest day by the time you get done with it. Water is a hassle unless you arrive while the little trickle at the base of the LA Chimney is flowing- springtime/post-rain only. Humping it from the Valley is no fun, and fetching it from Yosemite Creek entails at least several hours' worth of shenanigans. Getting over to the rim at the top requires some forethought; the alternative (climbing out of the notch) is non-gumby terrain, loose and sketchy.

Logistics aside, the location is amazing and worth all the toil. Special features include giganto bivy ledges, a seasonal torrent, and wind that will keep you in your tent until 8 a.m.
Oct 5, 2011