Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ivan Cross, Manny Rangel
Page Views: 1,889 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ivan Cross on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Paradise Forks Is Closed- COVID 19 Details

Description

This is an interesting engaging route, and unusual climbing for the Forks. It's almost entirely face with thin, but adequate protection. Manuel Rangel found, cleaned, TR'd and equipped this pitch. A safe lead would not of been possible without his efforts. Hats off to Manny for finding this quality route which had been overlooked for so long. The climbing is challenging and enjoyable. There are some loose flakes about 30 ft up, but it's easy at that point. The upper face is a little licheny but still climbs well. One should feel comfortable leading above small wireds and cams. Begin in a corner to a bulge (1st pin), face to flakes then a little to the right. Climb up along the arete (2nd pin) then face climb on the right side of the arete to the top.

Location

This route is all the way left of the Pillow Wall where the ground drops down and the cliff gets taller. It starts in an obtuse corner with an overhang 25 ft up. It can be recognized as a prominent pillar with a very flat top. There is a Ponderosa behind it which leans steeply away from the edge of the canyon.

Protection

2-3 sets of cams gray-blue metolious and one #3 camelot which can be placed in the initial corner. Also, small to medium nuts. Offsets are useful. Bring extra nuts in the thinner sizes. There are 2 fixed pins.

Photos