Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lilypad Boulders

Dragon Tails V7 7A+
Lillypad Problem V7 7A+
Prelude to Fear V9 7C
Steve's Problem V3 6A
Warm-up akaTurtle Flakes V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: Neil Pothier
Page Views: 510 total, 7/month
Shared By: cstorms on Oct 1, 2011
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The best problem out of the bunch down here.. I'd give it more stars if it wasn't so sharp. Start on the thin crimp at about head height. Work up to the three finger pocket, top out straight up. #2 on the beta photo.

Location

The most obvious line at the lilypad boulders.. climbs the bulge from a stand start

Protection

pad

Photos

Joe M.    
Yes, the flake and good holds to the right are off, mostly because it kind of draws you into the gap between the boulders. Lily Pad stays out on the nose of the boulder pretty straight up from the crimps to the pocket to the top. Nov 5, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Is the flake out right considered 'off'? Seems pretty natural to use it. Nov 5, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
From Ed Sewall's description - "The Lily Pad is a very hard route located down on a boulder below the Neils Lunge/Iron Cross boulders near the pond. It starts as a sit problem and goes up through teh obvious painful pockets. Its @ V7 I think. Neil Pothier did FA I believe, and Andrew Sornborger and I repeated it @ 1987."

Paul Baird's notes say Neil Pothier 77-79 "Start slightly right using small horizontalcrack reach for pockets and lunge for the top" - no mention of sitting down. I seem to remember (whatever that is worth) always trying it as a sit down back in the day, but never got it as it was a little too reachy for me. Jun 13, 2013
cstorms
North Bend, OR
 
cstorms   North Bend, OR
 
so basically use whatever you can down low to get into that decent slot, then up to the razor crimp, and then finish up lilypad problem? thanks for your help Dec 6, 2011
Joe M.    
Pretty much sit down with left hand around left side and right hand on whatever you can grab. Move up and slightly right to match the sharp crimp that you start the stand on. I have been told that it has also been done starting sitting slight to the right (kind of in the crevice of the two boulders) but the orignal way was a little more to the left. Oct 6, 2011
cstorms
North Bend, OR
 
cstorms   North Bend, OR
 
Does anyone know any details about the sit start to this problem, Prelude to Fear? It is obvious that there is a sit start, just not what the sequence would be. Oct 5, 2011