PRINT: Rock Climb Lilliburlero, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Lilliburlero

5.11d R, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
FA: S Breashears, 1976
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Bastille > Bastille - N Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a short climb with a short crux and is most often top-roped when anyone pays it any attention at all. Start climbing just left of the rising brown band of the 5.9 start of P1 of March Of Dimes and continue up into a thin (tips) crack and a hard crux, joining M.O.D. at the easy right-facing crack 1/2 way up.

Location

This variation of the first pitch of March Of Dimes starts just down-canyon (left) of the traditional set of starts.

Protection

It's not a total lack of gear that makes this route so hard to protect as it is the lack of stances from which to fuss anything in with confidence. A few small nuts are possible.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lilliburlero is the thin, right-leaning seam on the face.