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Routes in The Cliffs of Insanity

Butter Cup T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iocane Powder TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Princess Tried, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R.O.U.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingered Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gillett & Donahue, 2002
Page Views: 454 total, 6/month
Shared By: JFM on Oct 1, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1. Start on a dirty stance (with a much-needed anchor bolt), and climb up the arete left of the slab. There is an awkward crux down low, then the difficulty tapers off slightly; move right of the arete, and move into a secondary crux before reaching anchor chains at 100 feet.

P2. Belay from a very comfortable ledge. Start right of the anchors and use the pocket to clip a high first bolt, sidepull, and cross over the arete into a dirty channel. Move straight up into a gap and to the anchors, about 50 feet.

Location

Approach as for R.O.U.S.; continue east and squeeze by a pine tree, being careful of the *very* loose rock. Traverse the dirty ledge, maybe 20 feet, to the belay station.

A double rope rap to the base of the climb is possible with two 60m ropes. One 70m rope comes up just short, but the downclimb seems possible, albeit slightly tenuous. Alternately, do two raps to the first set of anchors then to the ground.

Protection

P1. 11 draws to two chain-anchors. There is a belay anchor at base of the climb down low.

P2. 4 (or 5?) draws to a double-bolt anchor with chains. Sling the 4th bolt for less drag.

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Hidden hold far right @ crux. Apr 22, 2012