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Routes in Bird's Eye and Sporty Area

Bumping Uglies - open project TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Butolicious S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Nameles Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Owl's Cliff Corner (The OCC), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Owliola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sporty Owl, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Talon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Sprague - 2007?
Page Views: 390 total · 5/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This beautiful, bolted 100 foot arete offers exciting, technical and surprisingly pumpy climbing. Start up a couple bolts worth of featured climbing to gain the start of the arete proper. Avoid getting suckered into getting up on to the little ledge to the left, or it will dead end you for getting on to the arete. Work your self up so you can reach the flake on the arete and a cruxy sequence that leads you onto the right hand face. Heal hooks, deadpoint hand pops and balance will get you through this. Head up the right face, and then before the break, swing around to the left and get a stance. An approximately finger sized nut or cam with a sling will protect pulling up onto the short easy slab section, which you cross up to the left towards the chimney slot just right of the mid anchors of Lady of the Lake. Extend the bolt after the gear with a sling and don't clip the Lady of the Lake anchor. After shaking out a minute, chimney up a few moves, turn around, clip a bolt out right with a long draw and hand traverse out a seam to the arete. Continue up the arete, doing some tricky moves (another crux), then back left onto the face and up to the anchors. A 60 m rope will just get you down.

Location

Head left from the approach trail. This route marks the right side of the Sporty Owl section. Look for the very prominent 100 foot bolted arete with a break in the middle and an overhanging pointy top. To the right will be the giant corner that leads up to the huge slot at the top of the cliff and the Texas Flake.

Protection

7 Bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. A finger sized nut or cam is useful to eliminate a short runout where you turn the arete just before the break, but it is not really necessary. Take a few slings and long draws to eliminate rope drag. - 60m rope needed!

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.12a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a/b
I wonder if anybody has repeated this. Hopefully the base has not all grown in. Perfect conditions out here this time of year. Aug 28, 2017

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