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Routes in The "Gimme Some" Dome

Amar-EZ TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blonde Ambition TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Blondes TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hollow Headed Blondes TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Blond TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Should I Stay Or Should I Go? TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: Nick Martel et al
Page Views: 548 total, 7/month
Shared By: NickMartel on Sep 30, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

10' of easy climbing quickly leads to the most sustained and difficult route on the dome so far. The crux is moving over the bulge above the cave on one finger crimps and lasts several moves until you finally reach the top-out jugs. Mostly crimping on small edges with a pocket or two.

Location

Climbs the left side of the east face of The Gimme Some Dome. Start directly below the right edge of the cave 2/3 of the way up the face. As you climb you want to be climbing in or just right of the scars of 3' loose flakes that were trundled off the face.

Protection

Top rope this route using the middle set of chain anchors. Bring your shortest quickdraw because 5' below and to the right (when looking off the top of the cliff) of the chain anchors there is a single bolt to re-direct the rope to above this route. As you rappel down clip the quickdraw into this bolt and then clip into the quickdraw with either just the tie-in side of the rope or both sides of the rope. Unclip the rope as you climb past it to the chain or just lower once you reach the re-direct bolt as the climbing above it is very low angle. This re-direct bolt is marked in the beta pic.

Photos

Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Top of the bulge is a little hair raising. Large patch of it sounds hollow with big jugs across the top of it, and when reaching for some of the crimps, fell off the bulge when the crimps gave way. Still a fun route, just keeps you on edge. Dec 30, 2015
Roi
Roi  
Thanks for thinking of us westsiders, Nick et al. Great routes if you can't get to the mountain on a regular basis. I'll reiterate the warning about the teddy bear cholla...went out with some friends and me and the dog got pin-cushioned for my carelessness (sorry Pancho!). Nov 21, 2011