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Routes in Lookout Point

A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Hatch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
An Act of Strange Boar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
And Say T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baby Tapir T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bobcat Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bowling to Biscuits T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanuts To Serve You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Kool-Aid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solitude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Steel Pulse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is Index Not L.A. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Velvet Pedestal, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You can cool Jack Robinson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011
Page Views: 2,511 total, 34/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.

For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.

Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.

For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.

The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)

Location

Same as for Peanuts to Serve You. Just right of Bowling to Biscuits, and just left of the Bobcat Cringe. See the beta photo at right for details.

Protection

Triple set of nuts to 1/2", several 3/4"-1" nuts, and a Camalot single set to 3.5, with doubles in sizes 0.5 to 1.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11c/d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11c/d
no, not the variation, actually the flake just above Derek in the picture is what I fell off of. But I did TR the variation after rapping from the top. It is really good, very, very dirty- anyone ever climb it before?
Now I understand Michal is referring to this variation when he says cut back right, was confused. Jun 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Geoff, are you referring to the left variation at the start of the pitch?

If you look at the picture labeled "Derek on pitch 5...", I put in some yellow topo marks to show where this variation is. Jun 16, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11c/d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11c/d
Hi Jon, I thought I would answer your question about P5. I don't think any move harder then 11a. I took a fall trying to get up to the corner I think where in the picture someone describes as 10b crux. I was about 6' above a #3, layback up a blunt downturned flake. I was not seeing any pro available, tried to reverse the moves, slipped and ran down the slab. It has some insecure pulling on features, which is more intimidating then hard. Once I got back up roof on left I discovered a hidden left slot that makes pulling up to the pedestal with finger crack above much easier, A #4 protects below this . I don't think it is as hard as Strange Boar, really good, just dirty. Jun 15, 2016
blakeherrington
  5.12-
blakeherrington  
  5.12-
Thanks for all the hard work scrubbing these pitches, they were fun! The topo and rack both seem a bit off. On P3, where two spots of .11c are marked. I'd call the second spot easily 2 or 3 letter grades harder than the first. The crux is a short boulder problem in the middle of a short pitch, but it felt maybe V4-V5, and for a rack, I'd say leave all the stoppers behind (3 sets suggested?) and bring a double set of cams from blue alien to red alien, with singles of .75-#3 or #4 (the only spot where you might want #3 or #4 is on the 5.9 starting section). Sep 29, 2014
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Great line, thanks Derrick and nice to meet you! I thought the grades on the pitches were fair, but there would be no way I could free the crux with my fat fingers. Couldnt even get them past my fingernails in the crack. I think this route is with up there with Serenity Crack as one of the coolest multi-pitch thin routes in the west. I liked it better even. Cant wait to repeat it! Sep 15, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
"Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral..."

I haven't tried it. It looks nice, but when we were there it seemed a little dirty.

From the belay to the 11d traverse-right part, how hard was the corner?

Dec 7, 2011
michal
Everett WA
  5.11c
michal   Everett WA
  5.11c
Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral i estimate clocks in at 11d classic pitch all day Dec 7, 2011