Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011
Page Views: 3,723 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.

For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.

Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.

For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.

The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)

Location

Same as for Peanuts to Serve You. Just right of Bowling to Biscuits, and just left of the Bobcat Cringe. See the beta photo at right for details.

Protection

Triple set of nuts to 1/2", several 3/4"-1" nuts, and a Camalot single set to 3.5, with doubles in sizes 0.5 to 1.

Photos