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Routes in West Face

Cucamonga Honey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Head Rush S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Left Water Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lunar Leap T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rawl Drive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Water Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truckin' Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Werner's Wiggle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Werner Braun (Aug '69)
Page Views: 1,186 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Unlike the Left Water Crack, Werner's Wiggle doesn't actually require any wiggling. Just pure slab climbing up the narrow groove to the right of the Water Cracks and Head Rush.

Rope up at an indistinct point on the slab below and start climbing up 4th class towards the left side of a flake. Plug some gear in the flake (.75" cams or med nuts) and the climb up to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

A series of "steps" in the groove lead up to the first bolt. At this point, leave the polished groove in favor of better friction out on the face to the right. Then join the groove again at the second bolt and follow it past a 3rd bolt to the top.

From the top of the second pitch it is just barely possible to rap the route with one 70m rope. Using a 70 I was also able to lead this in one pitch.

Protection

Bolts with a little bit of .5-.75" gear.

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