Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Werner Braun (Aug '69)
Page Views: 1,490 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Unlike the Left Water Crack, Werner's Wiggle doesn't actually require any wiggling. Just pure slab climbing up the narrow groove to the right of the Water Cracks and Head Rush.

Rope up at an indistinct point on the slab below and start climbing up 4th class towards the left side of a flake. Plug some gear in the flake (.75" cams or med nuts) and the climb up to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

A series of "steps" in the groove lead up to the first bolt. At this point, leave the polished groove in favor of better friction out on the face to the right. Then join the groove again at the second bolt and follow it past a 3rd bolt to the top.

From the top of the second pitch it is just barely possible to rap the route with one 70m rope. Using a 70 I was also able to lead this in one pitch.

Protection

Bolts with a little bit of .5-.75" gear.

Photos

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Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
A good route on excellent Tuolumne High Sierra granite. In keeping with routes of the era (1969!) it is runout (+/- 25' between bolts on the 2nd pitch) and heady for the modern era climber. Good mental physics practice. Even the "5.0" at the very start will get your attention when you're 100' feet out with no pro... Aug 5, 2018