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Routes in Shipwreck Wall - East Face

Blue Light Special S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt From the Blue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish N' Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flab Happy TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight of the Patriot Scud Blaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Jade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Marooned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
More Sandy than Kevin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mothers Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple Aces S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Riptide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising Tides S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skipper's Little Buddy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoney Surfer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walking While Intoxicated S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ted Stahl, Jim Ablao, March 2002
Page Views: 694 total, 9/month
Shared By: Corey McCarthy on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A unique experience. After tiptoeing past the bottom 20ft of "shattered rubble"(stick clip highly recomended as I think you could spend all day pulling 10 lb to 50 lb chunks out of the start), the rock turns solid as you enter a long section of liebacking. At the end of the lieback make a long reach to another crack system, this is potentially the hardest move on a redpoint burn. The technical crux comes higher, after a complete rest on the flake move up and right to good huecos just below the roof, clip the last bolt and find a good pocket out left and finish it out.

Location

High in the Shipwreck Gully, Directly left of Tsunami

Protection

8 bolts, stick clip.

Photos

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12b
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12b
This thing is super fun and really unique for Smith. Would see a whole lot more traffic it had fixed hardware. Unfortunately it was full of cobwebs when I did it, so it doesn't seem like it's getting the attention it deserves. Sep 14, 2017